Vienna restaurant review: Gmoakeller
Fine Viennese Cuisine In Vienna. ‘During your next home visit I’ll take you to Gmoakeller. You’ll need some real fine Viennese food, and it’s right next to Stadtpark’, said my friend Babsi in my first year away from Vienna.
Gmoakeller is an almost 160-year old tavern located at the border of the first and third district, close to Ringstrasse boulevard and Wiener Konzerthaus. It has changed from stale to tastefully traditional. The interiors boast three large but cosy rooms with vaulted ceilings, globe lamps, dark wood panels and herringbone parquets that are so typical for brasserie-style Viennese Gasthäuser.
The walls were decorated with chalkboards announcing the week’s specials, and the occasional landscape painting and vintage beer ad. We had not booked and were lucky to get a good table amidst dozens of local professionals and officials taking their lunch break on a weekday noon.
Fine Viennese Cuisine As We Love It
Fine Viennese Cuisine In Vienna. My children went straight for Wiener Schnitzel. I remembered my Grandma’s favourite starter and ordered bouillon with semolina dumplings (Griessnockerlsuppe), followed by Viennese onion roast with baked potatoes (Wiener Zwiebelrostbraten mit Braterdäpfeln). The menu clearly focused on the best of local cuisine. All dishes were finely cooked – crispy, juicy, slightly al dente in the most appropriate ways.
For dessert, we shared warm apple strudel. Gmoakeller still prepares the dough the way my mother did – by hand pulling it until so thin you can see through.
A note for Vegetarians: Gmoakeller’s puristic dedication to Austrian food means there is little room for non-meaty dishes. There are usually one to two vegetarian options on the menu.
Location: Am Heumarkt 25, 1030 Vienna; visit website;
Opening Times: 11am to midnight, closed on Sundays and public holidays;
How to get there: take metro U4 to Stadtpark, walk down Johannesgasse until Heumarkt; alternatively take tramway 2 along Ringstrasse boulevard to Schwarzenbergplatz, walk down Lothringerstrasse to Heumarkt;