Vienna Woods

Do you want a Vienna city break with a break from the city? Take some time out in the Vienna Woods.

Vienna's ranking as one of the most liveable cities in Europe is not least due to a large belt of woods with a couple of small historic towns right at its door step, from the north west right to the south east.

The Wienerwald (Vienna Woods) is a hugely popular destination with the Viennese for a Sunday out, not least since the Hapsburgs chose this place for one of their summer residences, and has featured in waltzes, a play and a film in several adaptations. Tales from the Vienna Woods is one of the signature waltzes by Johann Strauss, often performed in Vienna's New Year's Concert.

Trip To Vienna Kahlenberg

If the weather is nice, head for the Kahlenberg in Vienna's northeast. Rent a car and follow the scenic Wiener Höhenstrasse, which starts in the 17th district, to Kahlenberg. Bikers who have a good condition can take on the challenge and rent a bike.

Finally, the Kahlenberg received a face lift in the shape of the cafe restaurant Kahlenberg Lounge which has lured young to middle aged locals to get out to the country side at their doorstep, and enjoy a great view over their home town.

Start your trip with a brunch at the restaurant, if you go on Sundays, or alternatively lunch. You can get one of the free hiking maps at the cafe which offer a 30min and a 50min walk in the area; While the cafe and restaurant are open all year round, you can enjoy a spectacular sunset in the lounge on your way back between May and October.

Lounge opening times: 1st May to 31st October; Wednesday, Thursday 5pm to 1am; Friday & Saturday 2pm to 1am; Sunday 9am to 10 pm

Avoid the trip when temperatures are around 0 degrees Celsius in winter as black ice can transform this road quickly into a skating rink.

Trip To Thermal Springs Region

Recommended trip duration: one day

The southern part of Vienna Woods is plastered with fin de siècle villas, medieval, renaissance and baroque towns, hiking paths and wineries, and spas.

Rent a Car and head down south on the Triester Strasse, 16 km towards Mödling. From there, take the scenic route on the Wine Road (Weinstrasse) via Gumpoldskirchen to Baden bei Wien.

Mödling

Mödling's medieval city centre featuring houses with almost one meter thick inclined walls is great for a morning walk. On Friday mornings the main square (Schrannenplatz) hosts the weekly farmers market.

Half an hour before you plan to go for lunch, head further south From Gumpoldskirchnerstrasse you are entering one of Lower Austria's most scenic routes through hilly vineyards with the Vienna Woods on your right. I used to drive on the Weinstrasse for a couple of years when working in Mödling and living in Baden and felt the most privileged commuter of all. As hard as it is, keep your eyes firmly on the road if you are the driver. Avoid this road in winter if there is danger of black ice.

Gumpoldskirchen

After about 10 minutes you arrive in Gumpoldskirchen, a small renaissance-style wineries town popular with the locals. Use the parking lot to the right before you enter the city centre a 5 minutes walk from there.

Check the calendar of Gumpoldskirchen wineries or just see on-site what's on offer. I recommend Altes Zechhaus, Krug family (fantastic winery with gothic attic and great atmosphere. Its great menu sometimes side steps into less authentic dishes; ignore and stick to the authentic Austrian plates.) and Rudolfine Laurer, a nice and honest local spot with good wine and food.

After your meal, take some time to stroll around the town centre or stretch your legs during a walk on a hiking path between the vineyards. Pass St. Michael's church on your right.

When back in your car, cross Gumpoldskirchen towards Pfaffstätten and Baden bei Wien. At the bifurcation after leaving Pfaffstätten, turn to the right. This is a 30km/h restricted residential area, but the best entry into spa town and villa paradise Baden.

Head towards the Casino Baden , one of the grand casinos in Europe. The casino offers several packages, which make it easy to tie in the adjacent gourmet restaurant DO & CO. An absolute must is their outdoor terrace and bar in the summer! Entrance fees to the casino start at EUR 23, for which you get jetons worth EUR 25.

From there, you are well positioned to explore the baroque-style pedestrian area with the Kaiservilla, one of the Hapsburgs summer residences situated right at the main square, take a walk in the Kurpark adjacent to the Casino or head straight for the Casino itself. If you are after a modern dinner, stay at the Casino's Do&Co restaurant.

For an authentic Vienna Woods look and taste, head for Restaurant Edelsberger, a 10 minute walk from the Casino. Uta, one of my local acquaintances, has refurbished this 19th century Tales of the Vienna Woods-style inn eight years ago. It has loads of character, whether you sit in the original glazed wooden veranda or in the gardens outside. Uta has been serving up all the authentic local dishes I am missing in my London home in great quality: breaded chicken, beef gulasch, bouillon with fritatta or semolina dumplings.

Alternatively to visiting the Casino, soak or swim under the gigantic 2,500 square metres freely supported glass roof of Römertherme , Baden's famous thermal spa, one of the most sophisticated in Europe. My mother uses to plough through the main pool or relax in the large warm sulphuric water pool outside almost daily, even in winter. I like their aroma steam baths with essential oils.

Opening hours: daily, from 10 am to 10 pm; last admittance to the baths: 9.30 pm
Tickets: from EUR 9,70 per adult for two hours.

Tour map Thermal Springs Region

Click on the link Vienna Woods - South below the map to see my recommended route in more detail. Click on the icons for details about the main spots.