Straight Line Classic Viennese Cuisine
Michelin restaurant Walter Bauer was a tiny restaurant hidden in a charming narrow street in old Vienna: brilliant material for a triumphal discovery of a ‘hidden restaurant gem’. The traditional Viennese restaurant had been much hailed by locals, travellers, the media and food guides.
My husband and I stormed the restaurant: we were 20 minutes late. We fell into a pink painted room and almost into the arms of Walter Bauer and the waiter. While I was bubbling about difficulties obtaining a parking ticket, we were guided to one of the small white-linen covered tables next to a dark wood panelled wall. The vaulted ceilings could have been a former wine cellar, or a garage for horse carriages? Flower and landscape paintings lined up next to dark pink curtains.
Michelin Restaurant Walter Bauer. We ordered from the small menu of mostly Austrian dishes with a European twist. The amuse-bouche made me laugh: Leberkäse with mustard was the last thing I had expected in Michelin restaurant Walter Bauer. The idea of offering a rustic dish sold at sausage stands was original. Its presentation was a little less daring. My winterly green leafy salad with Balsamico vinegar topped with a long bread stick was fresh and tasted as it should. Likewise did my husband’s celery cream soup.
The subsequent turbot arrived in a nice arrangement with beetroot, basilicum and green gnocchi, a fitting combination. My husband’s duck breast with polenta equally did its job: the products used were first class. It was well cooked and tasted nice.
My selection of five cheeses arrived: Again, the bare essentials were done well, the cheeses were soft and covered a spectrum of different flavours. I remembered times when cheese was accompanied by nuts or fruit to spark your taste buds. I also remembered Michelin restaurant Steirereck‘s overwhelmingly tempting carts of dozens of cheeses and crispy fresh breads.
Michelin Restaurant Walter Bauer. The selection of wines dwarfed the menu by far. It was full of specialties and rarer wines. Walter Bauer, a wine connoisseur and gifted oenologist, provided excellent advice on the best wines to choose with our dinner.
The restaurant team managed to hold back their Viennese charm and extra levels of customer engagement. Everyone was keen to do their homework, servicing guests and dishing up food and drink. They did get it all done.
Should You Visit Michelin Restaurant Walter Bauer?
My conclusion: Michelin restaurant Walter Bauer is a good choice for no-frills gourmets who prefer straight-line, honest classic dishes and who are not up for surprises on their plates, whether good or bad. The same ‘It Is What It Is’ goes for the interiors which are cosy, Viennese style but don’t distinguish between traditional and dated. Likewise, but very comfortingly, the restaurant bill does not stand out, even though we did enjoy great wine.
Price: (3 courses) approximately EUR 80 (excluding drinks)
Location: Sonnenfelsgasse 17, A-1030 Vienna (use map of Vienna to locate address
Check my other Michelin star restaurant reviews: Michelin Restaurant Silvio Nickol, Michelin Restaurant Steirereck
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